hen was the last time you were genuinely inspired by something you saw in a high street shop?” It’s a question that Esha Ahmed, the founder of London based slow fashion boutique Omi Na-Na, has been asking for the last few years. 

 

High street shops stuck in the rut of pumping out the same old trend-driven clothes that are overwhelmingly made poorly (both in quality and in practice) sparked her interest in finding brands that were taking a different approach to fashion design and manufacturing. 

 

“When I was first exploring what I like to call ‘alternative fashion’, I was so impressed to learn that there were actually a fair number of brands that were championing a more sustainable way of producing fashion but on the other hand was completely disappointed at the lack of creativity in their collections. Their functional and minimalist pieces seemed to lack a story or any form of self-expression – something which I feel really strongly about,” reflects Esha.

After looking more widely for inspiration, Esha discovered a number of Indian brands that were founded on strong values of reviving traditional handcraft and that were challenging design boundaries. They weren’t constrained by the usual trends or set minimalist designs, but seemed to be forging their own paths. 

 

“The more I learned about these brands, the more inspired I was to share their stories and vision to wider audiences. They offered the perfect combination of pairing sustainable craft and never-seen-before designs that made me want to join forces with them somehow. I wanted to play my part in the slow fashion movement and promote the idea that we can all wear better and reap the benefits of it as a global community.”

 

By working with creative brands that are fighting for change on the ground, designers and artisans in countries like India are being able to take back control of their own industries, and in a sense, their livelihoods, and grow their textile industries into ones that are fairer and more sustainable in the long-run. In a sense, by supporting these brands, it’s possible to break down the neo-colonial structures that have dominated the fashion industry for so long and reform it so that it is kinder to both people and the planet.

I was so impressed to learn that there were actually a fair number of brands that were championing a more sustainable way of producing fashion but on the other hand was completely disappointed at the lack of creativity in their collections. Their functional and minimalist pieces seemed to lack a story or any form of self-expression – something which I feel really strongly about.

O

ne of the first designers Omi Na-Na chose to partner with for launch was Ode to Odd. Their holistic and thoughtful approach to timeless craftsmanship, as well as their imaginative designs which they sum up is “an ode to everything bizarre and beautiful in the contemporary world,” made them stand out. 

 

The Ode To Odd collection Phenomenal Women, found on Omi Na-Na, draws inspiration from tribal women in Gujarat who express their womanhood through clothing such as blouses that highlight their female form, especially their breasts. The collection celebrates everything female, but is also an honest attempt to stir a conversation around gender politics and female objectification. 

 

Their collection is made of hand-woven materials spun on traditional handlooms which gives their textiles a delicate and natural feel such as Ahimsa or ‘peace silk’ which is considered a non-violent fabric as silkworms aren’t harmed in the silk-making process. The Palermo Silk Trousers, as modeled by Aditi, are made of Eri silk, a premium fabric which is considered vegan, while the Sophia Reversible Blouse is made of Mashru silk, a beautiful fabric with an intriguing origin.

 

The story goes that Mashru silk was first made for Moghul rulers and the upper classes in the 16-17th centuries as they weren’t permitted to wear silk for religious reasons (the touch of silk on the skin was considered far too sensual). Innovative weavers therefore created a new fabric by weaving silk and cotton together in such a way that the lower surface of the fabric that brushed against the body was cotton, while the outer layer had the same sheen as silk – it was called Mashru, or ‘permitted’ silk.

Unfortunately, new versions of Mashru silk made of rayon and cotton have since dominated the market as cheap alternatives, but brands such as Ode To Odd are collaborating with local weavers to showcase the beauty of the original material and to give it a new lease of life.

 

As well as using naturally made materials, the Ode To Odd designers aim to take away focus from machine work and aim to celebrate handwork which can be seen in their garment’s details from hand hemming to hand-sewn buttonholes. The Sophia Reversible Blouse with its delicate exposed red stitching is a perfect example of how traditional handcraft can be translated into modern designs.

 

Many of the brands featured on Omi Na-Na also focus on giving artisan communities that become specialists in specific arts, such as hand-dying, a new platform to work from.